Last updated on October 1st, 2023 at 11:08 pm
Definition of Basket Weave
The Basket weave is also known as Hopsack and Matt Weave. The Hopsack weave, a variation of the plain weave, uses two or more warp and two or more weft yarns side by side as one yarn. The resultant cloth is relatively loose in the weave. The hopsack weave is obtained by doubling or multiplying the plain weave’s interlacing points in the warp and weft directions.
These weaves are made with two or more weft yarns in the same shed. The interlacing pattern resembles the plain weave, but two or more yarns follow the same parallel path. These fabrics are more flexible and wrinkle-resistant because fewer interlacing per square inch exists. The fabrics look flatter than comparable regular plain weave fabrics.
However, long floats snag easily. The matt designed cloth has a more excellent resistance to tearing. Matt’s design tends to give smooth surface fabrics. In the matt weave’s repeat size, the warp and weft yarns are equal.
Types of Basket Weave
There are four basket or matt design types. They are regular, irregular, stitch and fancy matt.
Most regular matt are woven with the same number of ends and picks and the same yarn count. Equal warp floats exchange with equal weft floats. So the regular matt design is produced by the combination of regular warp and weft rib design. The regular matt design is represented by the formula number ‘A/A X A’, where ‘A’ indicates the warp and weft floats.
Denting plays an important part in achieving a correct matt design. Ends that work alike should be separated by the reed as the ends tend to roll or twist round each other when weaving. The following figures show close up view of some regular matt or basket design with drafting and lifting plan.
Warp and weft floats are different in one repeat of irregular matt design. So the design is produced by the combination of irregular warp and weft rib weave. The irregular matt design is represented by the formula number ‘A/B(A+B)’, where, ‘A’ indicates the warp floats and ‘B’ indicates the weft floats. The following figure show close up view and interlacing diagram of some irregular matt weaves with drafting and lifting plan.
Matt or basket structures are liable to slippage, especially in coarser weaves or when woven with worsted yarns. To produce a firm cloth with lower setting, the Centre ends in each square can be stitched. In case of warp float area the central warp yarn goes down and of weft float area the central warp comes up. The following figure shows the weave plan of some stitch matt fabric with drafting and lifting plan.
Fancy matt is one kind of stitch matt. In case of stitch matt, the stitch or stitching thread is does not affect the prominence of actual regular matt effect. The stitching thread is hidden by the neighboring threads, so it does not visible on the fabric surface. But in the fancy matt the stitching threads are not hidden, they are visible. The stitching system affects the design of regular matt weave. They produce decorative appearance on the fabric surface. It can be compared with ‘katha’ and ‘nokshi-katha’.